Grand Canyon Caverns RV Park

 2. Grand Canyon Caverns RV Park

Good bye, Nevada. Hello...again, Arizona. There's a lot of truth to
the phrase, "It's not the destination but the journey that's important."
These past few weeks driving from Florida to California has proven
that time and time again.

Every road traveled presents more wonders of nature,
the power of the elements that shape our planet and the
insignificance of us humans in the scale of things.

In this arid landscape, it's the wind, sun and time that shape the hills and mountains.
Water and tectonics did their part millions of years ago.

True, humans have the power, intelligence and drive to change things but...

...in the end, nature will will master.

Traveling south on route 93, I came upon an out-of-place view. The Mojave County Landfill.
On the map, the landfill is in front of the colored background but I don't know if it extends
into the hillside resulting in the sharp contrast in terrain.

At Kingman, AZ, I left route 93 and proceeded 62 miles on the famous "Historic Route 66."

Again, the landscape changes...

...nothing for miles and miles.

Kingman's section of Rte 66 was one eye sore after another. Junk yards and salvage/reclamation yards lined both sides of the road for miles. On the one hand I thought it good that junked and rusted vehicles, construction vehicles and farm apparati were being removed and hopefully recycled but it was an eyesore nonetheless. Throughout my travels the landscaped was littered with such unsightly debris.

Fortunately, with an almost full tank my anxiety level
was way down and I'm headed for mile marker 115. That's
the address: Route 66 Mile Marker 115.

When I arrived, my first thoughts were, "Uh oh, this isn't good." No one around, doors locked, building run down and abandoned with a sign indicating I had to proceed 'up the road'. Off I went another mile "up the road." I came to the building that I thought would serve as the registration/office. Check out what is said about the Grand Canyon Caverns. Lesson learned: "Never judge a book by its cover."

Relics of what used to be part of Route 66 I suppose.

At least I was where I wanted to be.

That too was closed, so I drove into and around the campground. No one there. Lots of sites so I drove into one, hooked up and settled in as the sole resident. When night approached, there were no lights. I looked forward to the pitch dark and silence of an Arizona night but maybe not to the temperature dropping to 27º.  The moon was bright overhead but I wasn't eager to venture out to view what could've been a beautiful starry night; because of the cold, not the critters. Once again, with the heater going all night, I had a cozy, restful night's sleep.

Here's a 360º view of what I saw

. 

Saturday morning I walked back up to the Cavern Restaurant and much to my relief, found an abundance of life. Cars were parked in front and folks were signing up for the cavern tour. I met Whitney and made arrangements for both the tour and a lunch in the Cavern Grotto. Some photos. 

Couple of fellas waiting to be served already seated.

 

Reggie, our guide, began precisely at 11 a.m. for the
45 minutes, 3/4 mile tour.

Another elevator descent, this time 210 feet into an accidentally discovered cavern in 1926 that's estimated to be 65 million years old. Although one source says the cavern extends thousands of feet, another states that it extends some 65 miles to the Grand Canyon. The unique thing about these caverns is that its categorized as a "dry" cavern, one of the largest in the U.S.A. and part of only 3% of caverns considered 'dry' in the world. There is no water, therefore no stalactites or stalagmites; no animal or plant life, no bacteria and with temps constant at 56º, there is no decay...as seen in mummified bobcat and coyote who wound up injured and trapped beneath the surface.

The story that accompanies its discovery tells of Walter Peck, an itinerant cowboy, who was on his way to a poker game and stumbled upon the opening. After tying his horse to a tree, he investigated and mistook iron oxide and selenite crystals for gold and diamonds. He bought up the surrounding 800 acres. The content of the cavern is largely made up of limestone, gypsum and quartz. He decided to charge 10¢, later 25¢ to have tourists outfitted with matches and a lantern, explore the depths. He lowered them into the cavern on what he dubbed "a dope on a rope."

Lots of excavating to allow present day visitors to maneuver
through the caverns.

The route was fairly easy with hand rails, colorful lighting
and paved inclines. There's no need to worry about slipping
on wet surfaces.

This "stalagmite" not borne of dripping water.

At the height of the cold war, in 1962, President John F. Kennedy designated the Caverns as an
official fallout shelter ahead of the Cuban missile crisis. Funny how Russia then as now rears
its ugly head to be in the news again. I'd love to read that the beautiful, peace loving people of
Russia do away with the menace. The boxes contain crackers, the round, brown drums,
medical supplies...

...cases of bottled water.

From the backside, the view shows the black barrels of water said
to supply up to 2,000 people for weeks. Imagine the number of trips into and out of the cavern
to deliver this enormous supply. Because of the unchanging conditions here in the
cavern, it is thought that all supplies are as fresh as they were in 1963.

The supply depot from above.

Grape clusters of lime calcium carbonate

An extra attraction. Another group, properly equipped descended
into this cavern for their tour.

I passed on that opportunity.

A decades-old mummified bobcat speaks to the fact that it is a “dead cave.” Without running water or sunlight, no bacteria (or any living organisms for that matter) can subsist in these depths.

Mammoth Dome

142 feet above, 92 feet to the first shelf.

The original shaft opening where concrete was poured from
above and transported throughout the cavern to pave the paths.

This is a replica of the huge short-nosed bear that went extinct 11,000 years ago.
It's remains were found strewn below after it too became trapped in the caverns.
Scientists have put together the gathered bones and is now on display at the
University of Arizona 

Above and to the left of the replica, there's evidence scratched
into the rock of its last attempts at freedom.

The descent back down to the trail and return.

Yes, you can book a room.

View the video of a couple that spent the night HERE

Old collections of National Geographics, DVDs and books.
Scrabble and Trivial Pursuit games but...

...it is said some "paranormal" activities have been witnessed.
There's an episode. Check it out HERE

On our way out at the end of the tour, a view of the Caverns Grotto perched above.
I will be escorted back down to have lunch.

A very nice, simple menu consisting of good ol' American comfort food. As I was the only one dining, Julie, my server, called my order up to ground level. About 15 minutes later, daughter, Aurora, brought it down by elevator, placed it on a platform and Julie hoisted it up 25 feet on a pulley, set it on a platform and served me from there.

Just four tables

Beverages kept on hand. No beer, however. I had Chardonnay.

Hickory Barbequed Pulled Pork.
 Tender pulled pork in a hickory barbeque sauce pile on a toasted telera** roll with a side of dill pickles chips and chopped purple onions; I had the onion rings as a side. Delicious.

**Telera roll: Telera is a white bread made from wheat flour, yeast, water and salt, used in various Mexican sandwiches. It is about sixteen centimeters long, flattened and oval shaped with two longitudinal cuts at the top from side to side. In its outer layer, it is golden and commonly soft, and in its inner part, it is white and dense crumb.

Now here is the best part of the experience: with all tours gone from the cavern, the silence of being 210 feet beneath the surface was deafening. It was absolutely an experience all should enjoy. I loved it. Peace and quiet in its most concrete form. No cell service, no Internet, it was just Julie and I. Ha! Awkward, you say? Not really. After initial small talk, we got to know each other in the usual, superficial way. She's completed home-schooling her daughter who's interested in modeling and photography. She's been trying to get her husband to take the Hoover Dam tours and totally enjoys working here at the Grotto. For the most part, I ate in silence as she went about maintaining her service area and eventually had a cup of coffee. She reminded me of the homemade apple pie that came with my lunch. I took that home for a late afternoon dessert. It was a most pleasant experience. As another writer put it: "With unobstructed, 360-degree views of the largest known chamber in the cave network and zero sound interference aside from other diners, it’s an incomparable auditory and visual dining experience." And I had the good fortune of being the only diner. Afterwards, she accompanied me on the elevator back to the surface where she awaited other diners.

And so, dear reader, this ends another adventure on my way home to New York. Tomorrow, a five hour drive to Monument Valley KOA in Utah. There, I will tour Monument and Mystery Valleys, a Navajo Hogan and have lunch at the View Hotel restaurant. From there, a stop at Four Corners Monument. Hope you come along for the ride. Till then, take care and stay safe.

Hoover Dam

 

1. Las Vegas KOA at Sam's Town

Greetings and welcome back to my trip from California to Las Vegas. The trip on I-15 north through some fantastic scenic wonders and mountain vista were once again breathtaking. Traveling for miles up 6% inclines took me from 1,500 ft. elevations to ear-clicking 4,500 ft. Winnie performed well maintaining a  65 mph speed. Speed limits were 70 mph but the very strong gusty crosswinds buffeted me a good portion of the ride and forced the slowdown.  Gas stations were few and far between and that too, raised concerns. As you know, what goes up must come down. 

Beginning the descent, the signs indicating 6% steep grades "for the next 10 miles" were thought provoking as were the signs for truckers that announced both "Brake Checking Areas" and "Runaway Truck Ramps."

 These consisted of essentially a half mile stretch of gravel and loose stone
which would allow the trucks to become bogged down and slowed to a halt. 

That 289 mile drive cost me  $1.44 per mile. In my last blog I mentioned driving back to AZ to fill up with diesel for $4.79/gal before crossing over into CA. There I would be shocked by the $5.79/gal. Well, fast forward one week and my plan to travel I-15 through the mountains and the Mojave Desert on a full tank knowing the scarcity of "civilization" demanded a fill up. So, I bit the bullet and my first tankful of diesel in Corona, CA was $6.65/gal; this after a $.05/gal. discount. I thought I could make into NV to fill up again with cheaper prices. Alas, not meant to be. After that very long drive through "no-man's land," they knew they had you. Much to my relief a gas station appeared like a welcomed oasis mirage in the desert. I pulled in with a sigh of relief that quickly became a gasp of disbelief when I saw the sign: $6.99/gal...an increase of $.34 in just 180 miles between tanksful. And to add insult to injury, when I drove through Las Vegas, diesel was going for $4.69/gal.

Son, Chuck, had given me a heads up to watch for unusual looking lights on towers in the desert. Sure enough, about 45 miles out of Las Vegas in the Mojave Desert I passed the the world’s largest concentrating solar power (CSP) plant: The Ivanpah Solar Energy Facility, of which Google is a partner. Spanning 4000 acres of land, the plant generates enough energy to power 140,000 homes. 300,000 mirrors and lenses surround three, 450' high towers and that concentration of light is directed to and focused to a point that gives the on-looker a mesmerizing view.

My view from the road

An aerial view from the link provided below.

"Specifically, Ivanpah leverages “power tower” solar thermal technology to generate energy. More than 170,000 devices, know as heliostats, direct solar energy onto boilers fitted within the three power towers. Each heliostat consists of two mirrors, which concentrate sunlight onto the water-filled boilers to create high-temperature steam. The steam is then pumped to conventional steam turbines to generate electricity, which is then carried by transmission lines to power homes and businesses." For the incredible photos, CLICK HERE.

On the east side of I-15 lies the Mojave National Preserve.

My overnight stay in Las Vegas was fine but nothing to write about. It was actually a large parking lot for RVs, the majority of which were fifth wheels. The attractions nearby were so extensive, the campground was virtually empty of people. My next day's drive of 40 minutes to Hoover Dam was my purpose for stopping in Las Vegas.

First impressions on this leg of the trip with the barren
desolation of the landscape...

...was, once again, "Please don't let me break down or run out of gas."

I had to stop at the "Scenic Overlook." What could top the beauty I've
been seeing all these miles? Ha!

Lake Mead, the largest reservoir in the world. When full, the lake would be 155 miles long. In 1865, the town of St. Thomas became the home for early pioneer settlers when Nevada first became a state. In 1938 the town was flooded as the waters of the new reservoir began to rise behind the Dam. All had to abandon and resettle. Because of the lowered water line, the town has become visible once again; an attraction for the curious. For scuba divers...and their guide, there's a B-29 Superfortress bomber from World War II waiting for them.  The bomber was engaged in high-altitude atmospheric research when it crashed into the Overton arm of Lake Mead on July 21, 1948. 

This large crow stopped by on the wall to feed on tidbits left by a visitor. Up close? Very large!

My next stop involved climbing the stairs to walk across the bridge for my first view of the Dam.

In 2005, the bridge was built to divert US Rte-93 traffic from going over the bridge for 
safety reasons and due to congestion. In the 1940's the security risks were
high prior to WWII and the road closed until 1945.

It is the longest single-span concrete arch bridge in the Western Hemisphere as well as the second-highest bridge of any type in America. The structure, which cost $114 million, is named for Donald Neil “Mike” O’Callaghan, a Korean War veteran and two-term Nevada governor during the 1970s and Pat Tillman, who gave up a professional football career with the Arizona Cardinals to enlist in the Army in 2002; he died in Afghanistan in 2004.

My "Wow" moment for the day. Spectacular!

Aside from the massive structure, one of the greatest civil engineering feats of all time, the water level left me speechless. The U.S. Bureau of Reclamation states Lake Mead's water level has since dropped to 1,068.55 feet above sea level, leaving the reservoir about 35% full.  At the Hoover Powerplant, which funnels hydropower to Arizona, California and Nevada, the efficiency has declined by about 25%.

Seeing the parking area far below, I knew that's where I had to go and considered the walk from that area to where tours originated. It was a hike. First, however, at a security checkpoint cars and campers/RVs were separated. All my basement compartments had to be opened and checked as well as the interior of my RV. Then the long trip to that lot began.

The winding narrow road took me under the Memorial Bridge.

...past power transmission towers bringing electricity up from
the turbines down below. I will be taking that tour.

Approaching the roadway over the dam...1,244 feet long,

...the tower on the Nevada side showed the time at 11:10 a.m...

...as I approached the second tower...

...on the Arizona side, the time was 12:10 p.m.

Just like that, poof...an hour of my life...gone.

But not forever. After paying $10.00 to park Winnie, I made the L-O-N-G
trip back, repeat l-o-n-g, over the dam. I straddled the bench mark between the two states
and got my hour back. Phew...I felt rejuvenated and continued my hike to the tour. 

Some sights along the way.

 The Mike Callaghan Bill Tilman Memorial Bridge from
the top of the Dam is 1,905 feet long and soars nearly
900 feet above the Colorado River.

Looking straight down 726.4 feet. To hold back the waters of Lake Mead,
the base of the dam is almost as wide as its height: 660 feet. And to fill it
with concrete, it took 3.25 million cubic yards; enough to make a 4' wide sidewalk
around the equator or 16-foot-wide, 8-inch-thick road
from San Francisco to New York City.

Yup, I had the same feeling.

It is said the lake will never fill to capacity again but authorities say
that agreements are in place to avoid the pending critical shortage.
The water supply of more than 22 million people in the three Lower Basin states is in jeopardy

When full, the water level would be up to the bottom of
the inlet towers and, at its deepest, 498'.

The last time the spillway saw an overflow was in 1983...

...when water was diverted through a diversion tunnel that runs 1/4 of a mile back into the river.

My choice of tours was the Power Plant tour which would take me 200+ feet down into a turbine room on the Nevada side. The elevator trip down 27 stories at about 5 mph was quick and ear-clicking. I cannot relate all the facts and stories that go with the origin, construction and mind-boggling facts you should know. They are in abundance on line. These two are quick and informative.

First Video. Better detail.  For you fast paced viewers, check out THIS ONE.

30' in diameter, this "penstock pipe (water pipe) is two football fields in length.

7 of the 17 huge turbines, each producing enough electricity for 100,000 homes.
In 2019, 11 of the 17 have been overhauled to produce greater flow rates. This will help
with the reduction of water due to the drought.

One of the turbine being overhauled

The massive overhead boom that's able to lift and transport
turbine parts. Each turbine about the weight of a jet plane

The two turbines currently working are lit.

That's it. A long walking day; got my 7,500 steps and back on the road. Before leaving here's a sweeping view of an amazing experience I enjoyed sharing with you.

Hope you enjoyed the tour. I'll now drive about 3 hours along the famous Historic Route 66 to the Grand Canyon Caverns RV Park. See you then.